January,
the month for making olive oil at the mills
Crushing, grinding, pressing... there is nothing barbaric about the process! It all comes down to ancestral know-how that every mill master is pleased to pass on. Each mill is unique. Some are equipped with millstones and fibrous mats, while others boast the latest equipment, all the while preserving the old mill to bear testimony to the methods of yesteryear. A visit to a mill is an initiatory experience for the entire family. It includes tastings of oils made from different varieties of olives, tapenades, prepared olives, and so on. You will then be able to make your purchases from the well-stocked boutiques. In Languedoc-Roussillon, 5,278 estates boast 575,500 olive trees. 18 mills produce 400 to 700 tonnes of olive oil. This is not much compared to the national average (2,800 to 4,200 tonnes of oil) and is even less significant compared to European production, especially that of Spain. However, it is an extremely diverse production due to a wide variety of unique regional varieties of olives: Lucques (Languedoc is the exclusive producer of this variety), Bouteillan, Aglandeau, Verdale de l'Hérault, and Picholine, to name a few. Olive picking takes place in December. Most olives are hand-picked. The fruit must be gathered undamaged and whole olives are destined for the table. A good picker can pick approximately 80 kg of olives per day. It is easy to understand why olive oil is expensive, given that 5 kg of olives are needed to produce one litre of oil. An olive tree is most productive between 7 and 35 years in age. When it is more than 150 years old, its yield diminishes. Olive trees generally flower for the first time in their eighth year. When the tree is several hundred years old, the trunk disappears and shoots develop at its base, giving a new tree. This is why the olive tree is said to be immortal. Characteristics of "virgin" olive oil: This oil is obtained through cold pressing (mechanical). It then undergoes decantation, centrifugation and filtration. It is a natural product, a pure, well-balanced fruit juice with many nutritional properties. - "Extra virgin" olive oil offers the highest level of quality with irreproachable flavour. It has a maximum acidity of 1%. - "Virgin" olive oil is excellent with unbeatable taste. Its acidity level is limited to a maximum of 2% - "Lampante" virgin olive oil is a lower-quality oil. It was once used for lamps which gives it its name. Its acidity is greater than 2%. How olive oil is made: The pressing method used for extracting olive oil is more than 6,000 years old. Once they have been sorted, the olives are washed in cold water, and are then crushed with their stones still in them. The resulting paste is brought to room temperature and goes through a malaxation process until it is smooth and unctuous. Five to six kilos of paste is then put onto flat fibrous mats (made of esparto*, alfa grass* or nylon) which are piled one on top of the other. They are then subjected to hydraulic pressure which extracts the much awaited oil. This is what is known as first cold-pressed virgin olive oil. The oil obtained is then decanted through centrifugation. Its aspect, taste and acidity are then verified. The lesser-quality oils are then refined. Residue of the paste, known as pomace, can be treated with solvent in order to extract the remaining inedible oil which, once refined and cut with virgin oil, can be sold as "pomace olive oil". This oil is used for soap making and other industrial purposes. *Esparto: a grass whose softened leaves can be woven. *Alfa grass: a plant from Algeria and Spain used to make paper, ropes and coarse fabrics. Here are some mills that are worth a visit: Le Moulin Paradis in MARTIGNARGUES Tel: +33 (0)4 66 83 24 52 L'Huilerie Soulas, rue de la Masade in COLLORGUES Tel: +33 (0)4 66 81 21 13 L'Huilerie Coopérative, quartier Porte Rouge in BEAUCAIRE Tel: +33 (0)4 66 59 28 00 Le Moulin du Domaine de Pierredon in ESTEZARGUES Tel: +33 (0)6 20 08 40 40 Le Moulin Thomassot, hameau de Montèze in VERFEUIL Tel: +33 (0)4 66 72 92 74 Le Moulin de Villevielle, avenue des Cévennes SOMMIERES Tel: +33 (0)4 66 80 03 69 Le Moulin des Costières, lieu-dit Codonel in SAINT GILLES Tel: +33 (0)4 66 87 42 43 Le Moulin des Olivettes, route de Nîmes in SAINT JEAN DU GARD Tel: +33 (0)4 66 85 31 87